The year was 1909.
Geronimo would die February 17 at
O. Henry wasn't far behind, as the troubled writer continued to drink himself into an early grave.
John Lomax had completed his masters at Harvard and returned to
Evidently Harry Peyton Steger's duties at Doubleday, Page & Company that year included playing tennis in the mornings with Booth Tarkington and then escorting Mrs. Tarkington for sunny afternoon drives.
Roy Bedichek was soaking up a little sunshine himself. Bedichek was on a bicycle, riding out of a small town near
That distance, though considerable to say the least, doesn't reveal the challenges he faced. One hundred years ago, there wasn't even a road to follow much of the way. But there was a trail that ran along side the railroad tracks that Bedichek knew would eventually lead him into
At first, torrential rains turned the primitive country roads into a muddy mess, forcing Bedichek to retreat to a hotel in
Much of the time, Bedichek spent pushing his bike along the tracks. A chance meeting with a farmer might lead to a welcome trade for both participants -- a day or two of work for a few precious square meals. A deep hole in a creek might lead to a day or two of fishing.
Steger had waxed poetic in letters to his dear friend "Bedi" about daring to escape to a place where there was no money and no need for money. At times an intoxicating siren song from
All the while, there was a very sparsely populated territory just to the west of
Bedichek had to survive by his wits as he traversed the vast and barren
It was exhilarating to leave behind the constraints of civilization and, along with it, the dread of being caged for life. And Bedichek's heart raced as he eased his bicycle out onto the framework of the highest railroad bridge in

Built in 1892 by the Phoenix Bridge Company of Phoenixville, Pennsylvania, the rails of the high bridge were 321 feet above the Pecos River, making it the third highest railroad bridge in the world at the time. The 401-foot Garabit Viaduct in
It was more than a third of a mile across the metal viaduct structure. Bedichek had heard that trains would slow as they approached the bridge and then ease across, giving passengers time to appreciate the spectacular gorge and river far below. Starting across the expanse, step by measured step, Bedichek could see the terrain fall away with dizzying clarity through the gaps between the crossties until finally the Pecos River came into view over 320 feet below. He paused to take in the remarkable sight, steadying himself against his bicycle as a north wind whistled through the canyon and pushed at his back. He glanced over his left shoulder; everything he knew--his family, the woman he wanted to marry, every friend he'd ever known--everything and everyone was that direction. But he turned the other direction. They were giving land away out west.
At long last, Bedichek pedaled into
But people in Deming, for the most part, minded their own business and displayed a level of civility and respect toward each other. To Bedichek, this was the last frontier and these were the last free people in
He filed a homestead claim on 320 acres of desert land about nine miles south of town, nestled at the feet of the
Bedichek wrote and submitted newspaper articles, along with technical writing about irrigation and farming in the arid southwest. At night he lay in the tent he had stretched next to his shack and wrote poetry to Lillian Greer in
In The Roy Bedichek Family Letters, it seems Bedichek was very honest about the harsh realities of life in the
"I live on frijole beans and rabbits which I catch in traps,"
While his stab at being a correspondent missed, the poetry found its mark. In 1910, Lillian kissed her mother goodbye and climbed on the train. Two days and 900 miles later, Lillian saw
If up the sky in burning flight
Some mad star scorched its way
And if the mark, blood-red by night
Turned black as night by day
My love I'd liken to that star
Which did so wildly start
The mark I'd liken to a scar
Which burns across my heart.
-- Roy Bedichek
previous Steger articles
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